NOW THIS IS PIGGIN' OUT: GO BENEATH

THE CRISPY SKIN OF OUR FAVORITE ROAST

Of everything Anthony Bourdain got to try during his short stint here in the country-from Pampanga's classics to Binondo's streetfood-it's perhaps the lechon that left an imprint in his travelling taste buds.

It made such an impression that it even got him to write about it in his blog early this year ("Heirarchy of Pork" in www.travelchannel.com). Then, not long after declaring out once lowly lechon to be the "best pig ever" the itinerant TV chef has ever sunk his teeth on (besting Indonesia's and Puerto Rico's, his runners-up), Time Magazine Asia soon took notice and included it in its Annual Best of Asia list. Many other-from blogs and radio stations to periodicals and TV shows-then followed suit and gave our roasted pig its fifteen minutes. It could have very well been the unproclaimed national dish adobo that made waves in the food scene, but thanks to Marketman and his lechon, much attention was given to that damn delicious beast.

Bourdain may have narrowed it down to the country, but this writer wants to zero in on the city. And given the wide variety of roasted pigs available in the market, it was but wise to ask the "ambassador of lechon" what qualifies as the best one. "As far as regular lechons go, they seem to taste better to me in the provinces", the well-recognized , yet anonymous blogger confesses. His family is from Cebu and thus explains the reason why he may be partial to the Visayan version of the roasted pig-its stomach cavity stuffed with tons of lemongrass and a mix of seasonings. To achieve that glossy bronze color young Caucasian ladies can only dream of, locals sometimes baste the skin with coconut juice to achieve that perfect marriage of fat, caramelized sugars, and salt all in a single bite. "It should have no MSG, which truly mars the overall experience for me", adds Marketman as he lists down what makes for a truly good lechon. "It should be done the traditional way, using kawayan and not a mechanized-turning machine: should be eaten within 30 minutes of coming off the flame; and should be as organic as possible." As this writer realizes, a lot goes into producing a whole roasted pig and consequently, in picking which is the best.